Onetime earlier the fifth century A.D., the determine by Hinduism and Buddhism spread southwards from the mainland of southeastern Asia to the islands of Sumatra, Java, Bali and a few others in the archipelago presently called Republic of Indonesia. (It is misleading to think of all of Indonesia as either an ancient empire or the province of any particular religion. The vast archipelago of over 13,000 islands became the nation of Indonesia only in 1949 and only a few of its major islands were ever settled or much influenced by Hinduism, Buddhism or Islam). There are no archaeological remains of temples in the Indianized states of Java prior to the end of the seventh century as the early Hindu structures were built of wood and have long since decayed in the moist tropic climate. The first stone temples, Shiva shrines constructed during the eighth century, are found high on the Dieng plateau, the name Dieng meaning 'the place of the gods'. The greatest concentration of Javanese sacred architecture, however, lies on the plain of Kedu, some 42 kilometers north-west of the present city of Yogyakarta. Here stands the beautiful Hindu temple complex of Prambanam and the world famous Hindu/Buddhist temple of Borobudur.
Borobudur, a name deriving from an expression meaning 'Mountain of accumulation of merits of the ten states of Bodhisattva' is commonly thought of as a Buddhist structure, yet its initial construction was planned and conducted by Hindu builders sometime around 775AD. The enormous first and second terraces were completed by a declining Hindu dynasty, construction was then halted for some years, and later, from 790 to 835 AD, the Buddhist Sailendra dynasty continued and finally completed the great stupa. The huge stone mass might have then been permanently abandoned, for it was difficult to adapt to the needs of Buddhism. However, leaving in evidence such an obvious manifestation of Hinduism was probably not deemed politically correct and thus the unfinished Shiva temple was transformed into the world's largest Buddhist stupa. After 832 AD the Hindu dynasty of Sanjaya began to reunify central Java and soon reappropriated the Buddhist monuments built by the Sailendra. Although the Sanjaya were themselves Hindu, they ruled over a Buddhist majority and thus, while some Hindu modifications and ornamentations were done on Borobudur, the stupa remained a place of Buddhist use. During the 10th and 11th centuries there was a transfer of power from central Java to the east, and the great stupa fell into decline. For centuries the site lay forgotten, buried under layers of volcanic ash and jungle growth. In 1815 Europeans cleared the site, in the early 1900's the Dutch began its restoration, and a US$21 million project begun in 1973 completed the work.
The Borobudur stupa is a massive, symetrical monument, 200 square meters in size, sitting upon a low sculptured hill. The monument represents a Buddhist cosmological model of the universe organized around the axis of mythical Mt. Meru. Starting at the eastern gateway, pilgrims circumambulate the stupa, always in a clockwise direction. Walking through nearly five kilometers of open air corridors while ascending through six square terraces and three circular ones, the pilgrim symbolically spirals upward from the everyday world to the nirvanic state of absolute nothingness. The first six terraces are filled with richly decorated relief panels in which the sculptors have carved a textbook of Buddhist doctrines and a fascinating panorama of 9th century Javanese life. Upon the upper three terraces are 72 small stupas, each containing a statue of the Buddha (these statues are usually headless; relic hunters stole many of the heads, others are in museums). Crowning the entire structure is a great central stupa. Representing Nirvana, it is empty.
Monday, 15 June 2009
Stupa In Borobudur
Labels: Indonesia, Travel 0 comments
Wednesday, 20 May 2009
Antigua, Guatemala, is a beauty of a bargain
While it concerns fun and low-cost getaways to Central America, Republic of Costa Rica and Belize are the addresses getting almost of the attending these days.
But budget-conscious travelers with a thirst for adventure should consider Guatemala, a country less traveled by American tourists but no less fascinating than its neighbors.
Airfare to "the land of eternal spring" - Guatemala's nickname, thanks to warm, comfortable temperatures - starts at about $300 for a round-trip ticket from New York. And with the exchange rate a favorable 8 quetzals to the dollar, the cost of lodging is amazingly low. Nice hotels with private bathrooms range from about $25 to $100 per night - for two people; decent hostels cost about $7 a night, and a scrumptious meal like a thick meat-and-vegetable pepián stew will only set you back as much as lunch at a Manhattan McDonald's.
While flights from New York go direct to Guatemala City, it's best to avoid staying in the country's capital. Like many big cities in poor nations, it's heavy on crime and grime and low on charm. Venture instead to the colonial city of Antigua, which is only about an hour away by bus, and make that your base.
Tourist-friendly and steeped in history, Antigua is perfect for spending the day wandering around its cobblestone streets, historic churches and other buildings and vibrant markets. Visit the many beautiful hotel gardens around the city. Then park yourself at a table and enjoy a cup of piping-hot Guatemalan latte for 10 quetzals (about $1.20) at Cafe Condesa, or sip the local Moza beer at Cafe Sky while taking in breathtaking views of the nearby volcano range from its roof.
Even if you don't like shopping, don't miss the Thursday or Sunday markets in Chichicastenango, a $10 shuttle ride from Antigua. Get there the night before and stay at Hotel Giron for just $26, then watch one of the biggest bazaars in Central America come to life in the early morning (or take a predawn shuttle into town).
Whether you're looking for Guatemala's famed textiles or a live chicken (good luck bringing that back into the States), the market has it all. Bargaining is a breeze; it's recommended to offer half the asking price and work your way up from there.
You can't visit this region in south-central Guatemala without conquering Pacaya, an active volcano about an hour's ride from Antigua via a $15 shuttle bus and a popular tourist attraction.
Once there, buy a walking stick for 5 quetzals and take a guided hike to the top of Pacaya (the elevation is about 8,300 feet). The trip up takes about two hours and can leave you short of breath at times, but it's worth it. The view of the surrounding countryside is magnificent, and there are flowing rivers of lava on Pacaya's slopes in which you can dip the end of your stick and actually roast marshmallows - if you remember to bring some.
Just don't forget to wear old hiking shoes with thick soles - walking on the hot rocks will eat through sneakers and shoes.
Labels: Life Style, Travel 0 comments
